Friday, October 16, 2020

Kanab, Utah

Abra Kanabra!

You can't see it but he is smiling from ear to ear.  We just won the lottery to hike Coyote Buttes South located in Paria Canyon Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness.  This permit is much easier to get than Coyote Buttes North where "The Wave" is located. 


Sun rising over us

We traveled 60 miles to get here.  Half of which was on dirt and 4 wheel drive was required.

Cottonwood Cove Access Point

There are no signs or marked hiking trails.  The majority of the area is sand and slickrock terrain, so good backcountry navigation skills are necessary.

We set ourselves a waypoint before we left the Jeep




Expect the wild!





























Dinosaur Tracks


South Wave












Control Tower

Found a little shade to take a break and have some lunch









Rainbow Cove






Headed for the Jeep.  I am done.  Eight miles in the heat.  
Hope the waypoint we set this morning works.


This little cow was hanging out under this bush this morning when we parked the Jeep.  I have never been so happy to see a cow.

We made it!  No trails, no signs.  Thank goodness for our handheld Garmin.

Even though we were beat, we decided to visit White Pockets.  It is roughly in the same general area and we didn't want to have to drive back another day.

The swirling, twisted, multi-colored natural artwork of White Pocket will fill your senses beyond imagination.













We had never seen a sign like this urging people to know the difference between 
2 wheel drive, all wheel drive and 4 wheel drive.

We noticed this viewing area this morning and thought if we had time we would stop on our way back to the highway.  Too late now.
We left the motorhome and 6:30am and got back at 9:10pm. 

Today we are setting out on a shorter day.




Hell Dive
Looking for an alcove and a faint trail.



Locals call this site Medicine Cave because of the many intriguing rock art pictographs and ceremonial symbols.




This cave may have been a place for women to have child birth, hence the babies feet and the fertility God Kokopelli painted on the walls.


This petroglyph location had the biggest variety in colors that we have ever seen




Early farmers may have used this area for food storage and preparation, as evidenced by the many metate grinding locations, grooves and storage pits.




Whatever the cave was used for, you will feel a peaceful spiritual renewal.


Our daily routine starts at the BLM Wave lottery drawing 9 am sharp.  10 people per day are picked to hike "The Wave" the following day.

On our way back from Hell Dive our check engine light came on.  That powdery dirt we went through in Nevada gets us again.  The sides of our air intake was coated with fine dirt.

Have you ever seen a 6 door truck?  A must in Mormon country. 👪

Some maps call this "Red Canyon" but the locals know it as "Peek A Boo".  There are several Southern Utah canyons with the nickname Peek A Boo, but Kanab claims theirs is the best.

This slot canyon was formed by eons of swift water rushing through the sandstone rock, carrying along with it rocks, trees and whatever else happened to be in it's way.
















Notice the Moqui Steps, a series of steps pecked into the canyon walls by the early Anasazi who lived in the area.  These steps lead to a granary above, where corn and other supplies were stored.









There are two sections to the canyon



Along the outside of the canyon

we found this Hoodoo

Kanab Ruins



Belly of the Dragon
The cave-like tunnel was originally created as a water culvert under Hwy 89 but over time drainage from upper canyon water flow has carved the sandstone walls and created a beautiful rippling tunnel.




Exiting on the East side of the Hwy you can continue up the wash.



Crossing back through Belly of the Dragon


This trail crossed through the East Fork of the Virgin River many times




Dave beat me to the swing

After seeing how much trouble it was to get off without getting wet, I decided to pass.

Huntress Canyon



Diana's Throne



White Tower

White Wave





Lick Wash
A narrow canyon lined with Ponderosa pines, Douglas fir and broad Navajo sandstone.  







First signs of Fall






This hike is an eight mile, sandy, gravelly wash.
















Catstair Canyon

Catstair petroglyphs

Unusual bugs petoglyphs



Headed to Catstair Rip-Rap

About a quarter mile into the slot, you will come across what the locals call "Detroit Rip-Rap".  A nice neat stack of old crushed cars that have been wired together in order to keep the sandy hillside from eroding during heavy storms.  Just think, these were some families pride and joy at one time!






Dinner at Red Boots Ranch
Back in February we met Jim and Bonnie in Lake Havasu City where they winter.  When we mentioned that we were coming to Kanab in October they said to be sure and give them a call.

Another day at the office.  Trying our luck.

Wire Pass takes you into the famous gorge of Buckskin Gulch














Small rattlesnake
(snake #1)

Petroglyphs


Confluence with Buckskin Gulch

Buckskin Gulch is one of the longest slot canyons in the world.  It passes through 16 miles of amazing rock formations.  We did 3 miles, making it 6 mile round trip.

A narrow slot canyon is not the best place to have to cross paths with a small rattle snake. 
(snake #2)












As you travel deeper into the canyon, you will encounter obstacles including giant boulder jams.








This was our turn around point












The hill in the center is the bypass to climbing the ladder.

Because of their 2 dogs, this older couple was trying to climb the hill.  The man ended up needing help back down the hill. His wife and dogs continued on. He climbed the ladder and met up with them at the other end of the bypass.




Pahreah (the historic spelling of "Paria")
Abandoned for a few years in the late 1860's during the Blackhawk war, but was re-occupied shortly thereafter.  Repeated flooding resulting in loss of grazing and agricultural land, which resulted in overgrazing that along with poor dam construction, forced people to move out by the early 1900's. 


Paria River



North Rim

Lunch view

Point Sublime





We have now heard a loud clunking sound and determined we have a bad front axle u-joint.  Dave takes out his hammer to tap the cap back on.  We stop regularly to look at it.


Stopped for some "Famous Cookies"


Dave had Chocolate Chip and I had Oatmeal Raisin.  They were pretty darn good!

Dave drops me of at the lottery and goes to Bowman's to see about Jeep repairs.

Today was the busiest day of the year so far.  116 permit applications, representing 254 people.  With the size of the room they decided to move the drawing outside.


With the Jeep in the shop we need to ride our bicycles to the lottery drawing this morning.  3 miles to town in 40 degree weather.  That's cold for us San Diego Natives. 😬

Our 10th day at the lottery.  96 permit application, representing 214 people.
Only 1 day left 🙏

The Jeep is ready and the shop has been nice enough to shuttle Dave back and forth to the motorhome.  As they go to back the Jeep out of the shop the brake line  ruptures and dumps brake fluid all over.  

No one in town has a hose and it will take days to get one, so we rent a van and drive 65 miles to Sand Hollow Offroad in Hurricane, Utah to get a hose.


The next morning Dave drops me and my bike off in town so that I can go to the lottery and he heads off  to the rental office to have the car back by 8:00am.  The lady from Bowman's Automotive picks Dave with the new brake line up and take them to the shop.

Another big day at the lottery.  116 applications representing 302 people.

All of our unlucky numbers

Dave gets to drive the Jeep back but I still have to ride by bike back to the motorhome

This hike ascends more than 1000 feet to a sandstone alcove filled with ancient petroglyphs.  






Scrambling is required to negotiate a seven foot ledge















It is uncommon to see rock art on the floor of a rock shelter












The deeply grooved slides have never been found at any other site







Willis Creek









































1 comment:

  1. Grand Plateau RV Park 2550 E Hwy 89 (435) 610-2500 3 miles east of town. New Park. Large sites. Pull-thrus and back-ins. Offers weekly rates. More expenisve than others. Back-in, Fall rate $325.00 per week including taxes.

    Our reservations were originally at Crazy Horse. Site #63 un-levelable, shared 30 & 50 Amps. Site #48 small and poor electric.

    Check out Antelope Canyon next time
    Page, Arizona is another place to check out but too far for the Wave drawing

    ReplyDelete